- Posts : 973
Join date : 2013-11-03
Location : Upstate NY
I've never been a fan of gravity bleeding. It allows moisture into the system which is NG. Plus, if the bubbles are tiny, the fluid just goes right past them.
The "brake pedal" way is decent, but most of the time it isn't done long enough to get all of the air out. Lets say there's a bubble in the line up near the CV. It could take over 50 times to force the bubble through the line and out the bleeder valve.
Tbh, the only times I've ever got all the air out of the system was using some type of pressure bleeder, and pumping A LOT of fluid through the system.
The vacuum bleeders suck, no pun intended, and imo should be avoided.
For under $20 you can make your own pressure bleeder using a plant sprayer and making an adapter plate from a MC cover. Google "Home Made Pressure Bleeder" for instructions.
This is the type I bought: http://www.motiveproducts.com/ Along with their plate setup for the old cast iron master cylinders. Works like a charm the 1st time every time.
Simply attach it to the MC, pump it up, and you're all set to crack the first bleeder. No extra hands, or feet, are needed.
This may be unnecessary, but there IS a proper order to bleed brakes. Start with the RR, then do the LR, then RF then LF. If done incorrectly, air can be left in the line(s).
*** FYI *** if the combination valve shuts off the rear circuit and won't release it, there is a button on the end of the valve to re-set it. I learned the hard way.... after I bought a new replacement.
1977 Impala Landau x1
1977 Caprice Coupe x3, Sedan x3
1978 Impala Landau x1, Sedan x2, Station Wagon x1
1978 Caprice Landau x1, Caprice Coupe x2
1979 Impala Coupe x2
1979 Caprice Coupe x7, Landau x4, Estate Wagon x1
1981 Impala Coupe x1
1983 Impala Sedan x1
1983 Caprice Sedan x1
1984 Caprice Landau x1, Sedan x1
1985 Caprice Coupe x1, Landau x3, Sedan x4
1986 Caprice Coupe x1, Landau x1
1987 Caprice Landau x1, Sedan x4
1989 Caprice Sedan 9C1 x4